Street snapping in Sinchon and Hongdae

We were blessed with a Saturday drenched in sunshine and this weekend I intended not to venture too far from the circle line number 2.

I began my pottering at the Ehwa Womans University Campus in Sinchon. The  campus centre accommodates around 20 000 students and was designed by Dominique Perrault Architecture (2008) who I expect hail  from France. The scale is phenomenal and the cavernous building contains 3 types of facility. For the academic programs there are learning and sport-term project spaces, libraries and a range of cafeteria. The building also has the colleges administration department and commercial areas which contain a cinema, theatre and shops as well as external sporting spaces and car parks (20 000 m²).

Above and below the land previously occupied by Ewha Square and the athletic field the new “Campus Valley” provides both Ewhaians and prospective female leaders with much-needed extra space for continuing education and student services. The campus has become a tourist attraction in itself because of the landmark building that the architects bestowed. On Saturday I exchanged banter with Indonesians, Malaysians and a group from Frankfurt.

“A truly great book should be read in youth, again in maturity and once more in old age, as a fine building should be seen by morning light, at noon and by moonlight.” (Robertson Davies)

“Bad architecture is in the end as much a failure of psychology as of design. It is an example expressed through materials of the same tendencies which in other domains will lead us to marry the wrong people, choose inappropriate jobs and book unsuccessful holidays: the tendency not to understand who we are and what will satisfy us.” (Alain de Botton, The Architecture of Happiness)

Good architecture is like a strong marriage its merits are often undefinable but it makes us feel good, it inspires and changes our mood, this building succeeds in all this; it’s certainly the finest modern academic building I have ever come across.

Leaving the campus the contrast is immense, the litany of architectural carbuncles that represent over zealous catalytic development are there for all to see. This whole area deserves better but the positive aspect of the mucky streets and expanse of cables straddling the poorly constructed topography just highlights what an exceptional building the campus is. I continued past the monstrous half derelict Sinchon Station and Megabox and planted myself outside the foot tunnel that links the area to Yonsei University. There is a continual refreshing of the street art; as one mural disintegrates it is replaced by another sometimes political statement made through the medium of graffitti.

Graffiti is often a beautiful thing, a splash of the soul in unlikely places, displaying to us character and development, engendering ideas of hardship and victory. Then in an instance it is no more, often of its time and that time is fleeting, before its renewed and replenished by a more relevant piece of art. The spray can pirates in South Korea are much more palatable than those who strive to save the hillside slums by painting child-like populist murals that resemble Hallmark cards, I say keep up the good work soldiers of the working class!

I stopped and was salivated on by an over amorous Golden Retriever. I chatted to the two young brothers who owned him and were convinced he was just one month old. I suggested he must be at least a year plus but no, he is one month old :-). I suggested removing his manhood to calm him down but that was simply met with puzzled expressions and so I moved on for an injection of caffeine. A Saturday morning in Seoul fools you into thinking that the city may never wake up but around 11am folk stagger from their sojued slumber and take to the streets for their hangover cures. It is at this time I tend to find a peaceful park or simply wander through a new dong. Today was no exception, I would be staying in Hapjeong tonight but I had a bit of flaneuring to do before then.

Climbing up through Nogosan-dong I came to Wausan-ro and my eyes popped out as I stumbled upon another headphone dealer. I wanted the fix of euphoria that only confirming the “value” of my last weeks cans purchase would bring. I was successful they too were 40% more expensive than the price I actually paid. Wausan road provides the shortest route to Hongik University but it is the streets north of here leading down to Hongik University station that are most interesting for the street snapper.

This area contrasts wildly with the area opposite the university gates.  There are smaller crowds and affordable dining opportunities. I noticed an abundance of Vespa’s and a notable number of Mini Coopers. Bar names relate to New York and London Covent Garden as well as the usual titles that are difficult to decipher. The area is a neighborhood known for its youthful and Koreans say romantic ambiance, underground culture, and freedom of self-expression. Unique cafes, cozy galleries, accessory stores, fashion shops, live cafés and jazz clubs, art markets, and gourmet eateries make this a popular hang-out for locals in their 20s and 30s and a fascinating place to walk around. I mooched around for a couple of hours taking the occasional shot to boost my by now flagging constitution.

Later it took me 45 minutes, 5 Koreans, 3 phone calls and a stroke of luck to find my hostel for the night.  The unfortunately named Ho-hotel was around 300 metres from its location shown on booking.com. I was lucky as my kindly 5th Korean wanted to practice his English and so he took over the transport arrangements, calling the hotel and delivering me in person. The hotel itself was modern and clean though the wi-fi was unpredictable and the “clean” bedding had the usual mild stench of fag smoke. It’s a ritual of mine now to spray the bedding with 4711 Mandarin Orange cologne before I take to my pit.

After a nap I planned my night-time activities which included 2 World Cup games before the boys played Italy at 7 am. For those regular readers you’ll probably know that watching football on Korean TV is a trial but I had a genius solution. I would turn the sound down on the TV and use my iPad supported by VPN to listen to Radio 5 Live as the games began.

I couldn’t resist my usual Fish & Chips treat at Beegers washed down by the immaculate, and strong, IPA. The owner also kindly let me sample their new Porter from Daejon which was much more of a palatable experience that that endured when I have to work with my Daejon co-teacher. Whilst sat on the outdoor terrace seduced by the none-smoking atmosphere I came across a lovely quote from Jamie Ayres:

“You say (the British public) that the BBC are winning the soccer punditry wars, but surely ITV never stood a chance as having Adrian Chiles, up front and centre, is akin to starting the season with a 12 point deduction.” Fantastic!

I then became a victim of a US invasion on the next table. Of course they were expert pundits themselves. It’s great to know that Yanks who never watch and know sweet FA about football suddenly become expert pundits during the World Cup, I’d endured this for the past 40 years since Germany 1974; the worst occasions being when I worked in New York during the 1994 tournament. Apparently Spain lost because the manager is too old! I suppose if the USA lose it will because they have a German manager. In saying this they love German rocket scientists at NASA so perhaps he’ll be OK? I was getting excited only 10 hours to go to England vs Italy and listening to Radio 5 without a “mida” or strangled “shooting” I’d hoped would bring joy to my ears. What this numpty had not realised was that because of the weak w-fi I would have to endure a two-minute time delay between the pictures in South Korea and the commentary from the UK, aghhhhhhh!

I left Beegers and found another outdoor terrace on which to imbibe a few more craft beers. Opposite me a very loud Korean girl flounced in with blue hair and a tangerine top, loud and with skin the quality of the Sea of Tranquility she was fueled by an extremely large bottle of Makgeolli which she was demolishing through a  straw. She was accompanied by an extremely camp Englishman who sported golden curly hair, a string vest and he too sucked on his Makgeolli through a straw. Sorry if these persona insults are irritating teh reader but this self depreciating mid 50s, overweight, glutton for punishment writer was nervous and only an England win would serve to extinguish my fire of mickey-taking. At this juncture a positive thought entered my cerebral cortex, because of Sean’s leg I only had two classes on Monday, I would enjoy Monday if England win, if! My dream-scape became reality when the string vest fellow started to used his chopsticks as tooth picks, at this moment I thought its heaven help me go back to your hotel room and take a nap before footie. As I left Mr. string vest was all flailing arms and twisted tongue and I reflected that he’d be quite possibly be the spawn of Tory party sperm. One this for sure is he’d go down well with the Eaton Rifles in public school.

On the way back I noticed that the over-priced no atmosphere Irish bar had closed (during a World Cup!). How sad, they should have employed some Irish folk and not charged 10k won for a pint of Guinness.

Now the England game, Sterling was selected and Roy’s currency was at an all-time high. When in the opening exchanges he burst forward and drove a shot goal-ward, I rose from my seat believing we’d taken the lead and so did half the stadium. Unfortunately it skirted the outside of the post ruffling the side netting just at it would if it had been 6 inches to the left and a goal.  This was what we’d been waiting for young English guns to run the legs off the ageing Pirlo, how wrong we were to be.

Despite more passing and enterprise from an English team than we had seen since 1998 Italy took the lead. A corner pulled back and then a dummy by the imperial Pirlo led to a low driven shot by Claudio Marchisio which seemed to pass though someones legs, while un-sighting Hart and nestled in the bottom corner. 1-0 to the Azurri. England did not capitulate, we have a new breed of hungry players who believe in their ability, it is promising and Daniel Sturridge equalises after a fine assist from Wayne Rooney, I am in heaven! Half-time arrives with the writer convinced that the young guns would out-fire the ageing Italian canons in the second half but it was not to be. They of course have SuperMario and we have a suspect defence, Mario Balotelli’s header made it 2-1 to Italy early on in the second half. The imperious Pirlo gave a masterclass in possession football and with Rooney’s missed “sitter”, England’s hopes were dashed. This will be a great England team once the defensive deficiency is addressed and there is much to admire now in an offensive sense, we can still qualify if we beat Uruguay and Costa RIca. Do not repent Roy,  keep the faith and eventually these young boys will deliver.

Disappointed but far from despondent I boarded the line 2 train to Mullae-dong to snap some hanging shutters painted in street art. From here I walked through the dong to Sindorim and the D-Cube complex. Seoul FC were planning a promotional event and as the complex hadn’t yet opened folk snoozed in the Skate-board park style entrance area. After taking more snaps I took a coffee and bagel before heading for an early departure back to Dullju, snaps attached.

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An Artists Commune Among the Rolling Stock-Mullae-dong, Seoul

After a week in which my psychotic Daejon born co-teacher fell silent I was in need of a solo adventure free from the de-humanising aspects of Dullju society.

Just to clarify what incited the bunny boilers behaviour. On Sunday/Monday I’d picked up a virus, and visited the doctor who gave me fourfold medication but on Tuesday I was still too sick to work. Post sleeping for 13 hours, I texted both the head of English and “Kathy Bates” informing them of my misery. Of course my boss understands that if I say I’m sick then I AM SICK and will deal with this, if I need help I’ll ask! Kathy is less accepting and called me at 7am to advise a further hospital visit and suggest an additional potion.  I took her advice on the potion and collected this from the pharmacy, the hospital was NOT necessary. I took my medication and returned to my pit. Around 12:42pm just as 4th period ends I was awoken by another call which consisted of a banshee style monologue and further instruction which incited a rising of my hackles and the following statement. “Please stop interfering; I’m 53 years old and not a baby. I’ve already seen the doctor and my medication will take time to work”. She of course took the huff and hung up. I apologised if I’d upset her by text and went back to sleep. In the next 16 hours the meds kicked in and on Wednesday, though tired, I returned to work.

Having said good morning to no reply I began my classes as normal. She avoided eye contact and any form of communication and this spilled over into Thursday when during our class together she turned her back on me then called time on the class before I’d finished. I’m not sure if the other teachers have clocked what’s going on but for her it’ll be a long year until next February! Having failed to induce what Morrissey described as “a permanent state of circumstantial sadness” let’s see how long it takes Kathy to unfreeze. As in total only 2.5% of my life is spent in close proximity and that for just a semester and a half, I am sure a state of melancholy will be avoided. The miasmic atmosphere she has generated will fail to dampen my spirits.

I’d intended to visit Mullae-dong in Seoul for a while and a generally overcast day was forecast so that’s where I headed on Saturday. The industrial neighborhood of Mullae-dong transformed into an art district around 2005 when young artists began to set up studios in abandoned steel foundries there, most transferring from the rising rents of Hongdae across the Han River.

As I headed out of Mullae-ga I headed left at what looked like a former information booth, sparks were flying from every direction and the sound of metal being beaten into submission filled my ears. Men toiled in blue boiler suits covered in light layers of dust with sweat dripping from their foreheads, others stood, sat or simply slept in the garages that lined the streets. From the signs adorning their art studios to the humorous graffiti scrawled on the shutters of ironwork, the resident artists have made their mark.

I tumble through the alleyways, some artist’s studios double up as coffee shops others welcome was more akin to Alcatraz. The smell of Kimchi Stew hung on the summer breeze and kids raced along careering around corners on two wheels. The background noise took me back to my apprentice days with the grinding of steel, whirring of drills and the cackle of welding. In this small pocket of Seoul time is standing still but I’m sure progress will invade soon.

I indulged myself with coffee, cream cheese onion bagel and a huge cinnamon pastry before returning to Mullae-ga for my trek to West Seoul Lake Park.  Seoseoul Lake Park (서서울호수공원) is reached by subway from Hwagok Station (Subway Line 5) Exit 5. Straight ahead 3/4 minutes walk then take Bus 652, 6627 or 6625. The obsolete water treatment plant that once served 50,000 people was reborn as an eco-friendly people’s park and acted a catalyst to revitalizing this downtrodden industrial neighbourhood of Seoul.

The former Sinwol Water Purification Plant operated from 1959 to 2003 when it was transformed into its current form. The design of this oasis of urban regeneration was guided by three concepts, those of ecology communication and regeneration. The grounds include a Media Art Waterfall and the Sound Fountain which spans the lake. Every few minutes, when airplanes roar above on the flight path to Gimpo the noise pollution generated when noise levels exceed 81 decibels incites the fountain to project jets of water 15 metres in the air.

Inspired by Piet Mondrian’s horizontal and vertical lines aesthetics, the centrepiece is the Mondrian Garden, here architects have reused and recycled as much as possible from the former water plant. The cornucopia of man-made materials (concrete, galvanized and bare steel), technology (media fountain) and nature is delivered on 2 levels in an award winning design.  I have to say Korea excels at these types of regeneration project though does not always maintain them very well. The area was well populated with Seoulites including a small army of photographers and their paid model that seductively leached herself to every surface to satisfy their needs. Glam photography in a park full of kids, appropriate? I was and I must say politely instructed to keep my distance, which I more politely declined explaining that they’d got their Korea’s mixed up and this was a public space. I wasn’t out to capture the glam of course but wanted to record the event in an iphonographic form :-). As it transpired a posse of adjuma’s moved them on in a much more animated fashion than I’d been able to muster.

Returning to central Seoul and Seonyudo-da I stopped for “3 for 2” Vitamin water and Snickers before following the signs to the Han River Park and Seonyudo Island. I’d traveled here a number of times but not on such a glorious sunny day. Another water treatment plant regeneration Seonyudo is yet one more Korean triumph. Crossing from the south Seoul side of the river the pier takes to across a 6 lane highway (Olympic Daero) and the Hangang portion of the river park before an arched bridge deposits you on the island proper. The Island was teaming with folk must it has to be said hiding in the shade feared of “turning black” (my co-teachers expression). Of course kids are slightly more frivolous and yet to be brainwashed and reveled in the playground within the converted water tank. The lotus blossoms were in early flower as young couples contorted to make selfies with a picturesque backdrop, a few gender bending Cosplay teenagers sported blue, gold, silver and red wigs in an homage to Japanese manga and their love of androgyny.

I left the park stepping onto the road bridge and crossing over the river to Hapjeong and Mercantopolis.  Here a craft fair was in full swing and the water features had for the first time in my experience been switched on. After a final caffeine injection I realised my bed for the night was only 7 minutes walk away and so I headed off to meet my host at Yooginong Guesthouse in Hapjeong.  Hapjeong is riddled with cool bars, cafes and boutiques and one of my favourite places for an evening out in Seoul. Less brash and hedonistic than neighbouring Hongdae, it delivers on all fronts. The main drag “Cafe Street” is busy without being overcrowded and the commercial area is now spreading south towards the river.

Early Sunday I headed out past the World Cup Stadium to Digital Media City a purpose built area of Seoul like the Media City in Manchester. Formerly a landfill site this electronic nirvana is the home for broadcasting, film production, games, telecom companies, cable channels, online shopping centers and e-learning. The 133-floor Digital Media City Landmark Building, proposed completion in 2015 hasn’t yet slipped out of its foundations but other construction is taking place at breakneck speed.

Outside one glass edifice there was a snaking 800 metre queue which was for some prize show on TV. It seemed the youth of Seoul with 40 fags each on board had descended on DMC this particular Sunday morning, the coffee shops that bothered to open on a weekend were booming. With the plaza a new building had landed since my last visit, this large curvaceous armadillo had taken its design references from Ms Hadid’s DDP and is another of my favourite Seoul buildings. At the far end of media city Google-maps suggested a short stroll would give me access to the 5 World Cup Parks, ironically how wrong and misleading digital media can be.

The street became an elevated highway with no access to the greenery below; I peaked over to see farmers slaving in the sun to extract any life they could from the soil in this brief spring season. Further along I came to a sign that indicated that the Hangang River Park was 500 metres ahead, I was to be disappointed! Around a kilometre ahead there was a lift down to the park, unfortunately for me it was on the opposite side of the six lane carriageway. I faced a dichotomy a 3 km reverse journey or a sprint for my life, I chose the latter.  Fortunately the only mark left on me from my spectacular quick footed sprint was the soot deposited in my crotch as I high hurdled over the central barrier. Safely ensconced on the other side I descended to the park in the lift.

I was in the Nanji Hangang Park which was developed on the banks of the Han River. It contains a campground, soccer field, basketball court, wild grass fields, a small marina and a wetland area for nature-studies. One thing I’ve noticed in my time in Korea is the upsurge in popularity of rollerblading and its denizens were out in force today. The mountain bikers also could be counted in thousands despite the park being situated on the flood plain with not a hillock to bounce over. What I really enjoyed seeing were the old guys riding decades old touring bikes and leaving the faux ninja warriors in their wake. I passed the Youth Plaza, the Water Purifying Garden and the Mirror Fountain opposite the Yacht Arena before taking the swirling new footbridge back to the Peace Park and World Cup Stadium. I still find the rows after row of tents sat upon concrete amusing when inhabiting a green space on a beautiful day but hey ho that’s SK.

As it was early afternoon I grabbed some lunch and headed to the Samsung Leeum Art Gallery/Museum in Itaewon. Well, well, well there was a showcase for young Korean contemporary artists “Arts Spectrum 2014” which was incredibly underwhelming. It seemed to me that most of the exhibits failed on two levels firstly technically inept and secondly lacking in concept. I’m no expert but I should have invested my dosh in a Wolfhound cooked breakfast or some artisan French bread! A disappointing end to another engrossing weekend.

 

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