Seoul: Pottering around Jogno, Baekasil Valley and the World Cup Parks

A couple of weeks ago I spent a relaxing weekend in Seoul, the Saturday morning  I simply wandered around Jogno committing iphoneography on the locals. I started in the area around Jongno-3 ga, exit 6, one of the last remaining well-preserved few streets of Hanok houses in the Jongno area. I then visited Tapgol Park where the Independence Proclamation was read. The independence movement relief plate and the statue of Son Byeong-hee are located here. The park is of great historical value and commemorates the Korean national spirit as it was the starting point of the March 1, 1919 Independence Protest.

I carried on south towards the Cheonggyecheon which was quiet but I did snap a number of characters before meeting FOBY at City Hall. We headed up to Buam-dong leaving the 7022 bus at Changuimun (창의문), the oldest of Seoul Fortress’s four small gates and heading right up Jahamungil, the road that runs behind and follows the contours of, Bugaksan Mountain. We were heading for the Baeksasil Valley to escape the heat.

Before getting to the valley entrance we passed the Art for Life cafe and after around 10 minutes further advancing up the hill rested with a coffee at Sanmotoonge Cafe, which means (Corner of a mountain). This gallery & cafe, located on Bugaksan Mountain, has a magnificent outlook over Northern Seoul. It’s also celebrated as one of the locations where the Coffee Prince drama was filmed in 2007.  There is also a veranda on the second floor where you can get pleasure from both the view and the placid, natural vibe. From here we continued up the hill and then following the signs descended towards the valley itself.

Baeksasil Valley is a picturesque part of the Seoul that conjures up the ambiance that you are completely in a rural area. Its title literally means “valley of mountains surrounded by streams.” The area was a “just what the doctor ordered” escape for the aristocracy during the Joseon Dynasty; they created landscaped gardens and second homes here. The quarter we passed through was calm and attractive; an ostensibly surreptitious modest neighborhood concealed away from the rest of the city. The entrance for once, is well signposted; you’ll find yourself faced with a wooden staircase that gently leads your tired muscles into a serene hike through an ancient Joseon garden. Further on we came to

In their entirety, the trails in Baeksasil only cover a few kilometers, but what makes the walks here unique is that not many people take the time to “discover” them. It would be sad to sacrifice this tucked away jewel. Near the end of the trail we came to Hyeontongsa Temple were we were offered tea and a warm welcome. The temple sits atop a giant pink granite rock which must be spectacular in the rainy season when it becomes a tumbling waterfall. There’s a bridge of course for this exact occasion but during the dry season we didn’t need it. We continued our walk leaving the valley to emerge at the university were we caught the 7022 back into Jongno getting off at City Hall. To visit the valley, take a bus from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3) and take a bus (7212, 1020, and 7022) to Buam-dong Changuimun Gate, it takes around 10 minutes.

We walked back along the main thoroughfare to Jongno-3 ga, FOBY’s usual hunger pangs getting the better of him. We stopped for a nibble at a street stall; the “everyday” chicken skewer was hotter than the performance of Andros Townsend for England! Later we headed back for that wonderful Korean Pork Barbecue at Jongno-3 ga exit 6.

Sunday saw us head for World Cup Park, somewhere I visited in the cold depths of the Korean winter, today’s trip was to be less of a trauma. The World Cup Park was built to commemorate the 17th FIFA World Cup. Opened in May 1st, 2002, the park was once a 15-year-old landfill that held over 92 million tons of garbage. It took 6 years to stabilize the waste (measures were taken to prevent the garbage runoff from contaminating the environment) and an additional year to build the actual park itself. The park is located near the Seoul World Cup stadium, and is made up of five smaller parks including the Pyeonghwa ‘Peace’ Park, Haneul ‘Sky’ Park, and Noeul ‘Sunset’ Park. The park takes up a 1.05 million-pyeong area and is usually crowded with in-line skaters.

We crossed over the huge stepped bridge at the stadiums south end which is also linked to Home Plus or Tesco’s in UK speak.  There was some huge event taking place, it was to do with health care.  There were as usual lots of places to gorge and a main stage which played host to Korean “rap” performances. Init, blad, bruv, cuz and allow! We crossed the car park towards the “Blue” bridge over the highway; this gave us access to the stairs and the Haneul “Sky” Park. Around 85 diverse species of flora grow here; the gigantic plateau is renowned for its Cogon grass and Eulalia. Visiting in early October when the reeds evolve a golden tint, and the skies are generally clear and blue is a must-see in Seoul.

Haneul Park, at one time a mountain of garbage, it now a green “eco” hill with 22 sentry points presenting (on a clear day like today) wonderful vistas of Seoul City, Mt. Namsan, Mt. Bukhansan, and Mt. Gwanaksan. 5 wind-powered generators supply energy to the park and the park’s maintenance office. As we climbed the stairs we noticed pinned at regular points on the steps are small plaques with a number. Precisely 291 stairs are ascended before accessing the top. It was busy today with the hordes of masked ninja’s and labeled students carrying their lunch boxes towards the summit. Once there the climb is well worth it, away from the main path that circumnavigates this giant plinth it’s still easy, even when busy, to find quiet spots if you follow the paths that criss-cross it. The sun was shining bright on the upland slopes and when the wind stirred soft through the springing grass it was a relaxing experience. The faux post boxes flitted perilously on their stalks as we made our way through the Zen like garden. We stopped at the central Gazebo, still one of my favourite spots in Seoul. This punctuated, arched, organic stainless-steel form provides awesome view down the paths and across the plateau towards another piece of public sculpture, the ‘Growing Sculpture’ In Haneul Park, an observatory, is an art piece. Its Korean name means ‘A bowl that holds the sky in it’.

From here, after taking in the views in all-directions, we descended the hill, strolled through the event area and snapped some fake iron-men. We covered our ears to avoid the terrible rappers and took an “Italian” lunch in Homeplus before taking the metro back to Central City Terminal for our differing departures home.

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Exhilarating, Intoxicating and Invigorating Bukhansan

Leaving Chungju on the 6:35 am Saturday morning it was my intention to head direct to Buam-dong to take the trail up Inwangsan Mountain. On settling in my seat I was randomly searching Seoul blogs to find extra-curricular activities and discovered that Gangnam Express Bus Terminal has a roof garden. I found this intriguing, as one of my less enjoyable Seoul experiences is the titanic maelström of noise and activity that is Sunday at EBT. On arrival I picked up a coffee and headed across the car park taking the lift to floor 10 of the “Pyramid”. There are a couple of restaurants up there and a church! The “gardens” are actually decked terraces adorned with a range of greenery and flowers but what an antidote to the snake-bite of early Sunday evening EBT!

Returning to terra-firma I took the subway to Geongbukgung (exit 3) and bus 1020 to Buam-dong. I passed through Changuimun Gate stopping at Club Espresso for proper Sidamo and a jam scone. I then climbed the hill of Poet Yun Dong-ju otherwise known as Cheongun Park. The view across the city from here are fabulous on a clear day or when the sun burns off the morning mist but today it was still early, the silhouette of Namsan tower barely visible in the brume. A five minute walk brought me to the start of the trail that snakes over Mt. Inwangsan. The mountain is known as the highly-sacred “Benevolent King” Mountain and is the Shamanic centre of Korea‘s Capital.

It’s a steep walk as Buam-dong falls away beneath you and the back-drop is the highly militarised area of Bukhansan Mountain which rises behind the Blue House. There are some lovely rock out-crops where hikers stop to relax and take in the view whilst snacking or imbibing Soju and Maekoli. In a number of places photography is forbidden for “security   reasons” and sentry post guarded by reluctant “boy” soldiers but there are still many photo opportunities. As the weather improved and the mists cleared I took advantage of this to record my journey up and over the mountain. I passed the usual array of ninjas and there masked accomplices; I was particularly enamoured by a pet lover carrying his sky blue clad pooch over the mountain, not a place you would usually find Man City fans. The Blue Moon was rising over the Blue House on Saturday!

I reached the summit which was fully populated by Black Yak, K2, Red Face, Kolon Sports, Millets adorned “mountaineers”. I felt naked in my Adidas trackie bottoms and t-shirt :-). I stopped and chatted to a group of elementary kids and their forward-looking young teachers, who actually eulogised about outdoor activities being educational.  Korea there is hope, they have seen the light! After a 30 minute stop taking in all the views I began the steep hike down glad that once again I had begun my trek early and East to West. Why? It seems trekking the Seoul Fortress Walls invariably is easier on the legs when  going East to West, whilst still steep the climbs are more gradual and less intimidating. There may be some geological reason, I don’t know, but maybe I’ll investigate.

At one point a hikers traffic jam reached numbers of around 150 but the atmosphere was generally light-hearted, walkers clung to the ropes that helped them navigate the vertical slopes. Some folk took the opportunity to find a ledge on which to take refreshment, others complained with grizzled expressions, others giggled fuelled by either good humour or Soju I’m not sure. After about 40 minutes, and after a free lunch offered by kind Koreans, adjacent to yet another sentry box there was a break in the wall and a staircase gave access to the other side and views across Muak-dong and Sondaemun-gu towards the prison. I also stumbled upon a temple complex in an area known as Muak Park.

Inwangsa is a Buddhist temple of the Bonwon Order on Mt. Inwangsan. It is located at San 2, Muak-dong, in the Jongno-gu area of the city. When King Taejo of Joseon Dynasty established the capital city in Seoul, he assigned Josaeng (조생 祖生), a monk of Buddhist temple affiliated to the royal court as the head monk of the new temple to establish it at the site. The complex has a number of shrines but the most venerated in Inwangsa is a large volcanic rock called Seonbawi, which means “Zen Rock,” because it resembles an old monk bending in prayer. The rock is also known as Gijaam, the “Rock of Childbearing Prayer,” because many women and married couples pray for childbearing at the site. After  visiting the shrine, without a thought for procreation, I climbed up the side of the mountain taking a circular route passed impressive rock formations with carved messages presumably declaring unbridled passion. I also came across further small shrines alongside which people picnicked. I then followed the path down through pine groves emerging again at the fortress wall to take the final 20 minute walk to Sajik Park. On the way I chatted to a mother and daughter, the kid clung to her moms legs über shy at even having her picture taken by mum.

The name of the park dates back to 1395 when Taejo Lee Sung-gye made the first Sajikdan (altar to the State deities) along with the Jongmyo Shrine (Royal Ancestral Shrine) at the centre of the park. “Sa” refers to the deity of the earth while “jik” refers to the deity of the five grains. Rites wishing for a good harvest were held regularly at the Sajikdan. I had a refreshing Vitamin water and watched kids soccer training before I took the walk to Gyeonbokgung Subway station and the three stop journey to Jongno 3-ga to book into my hotel for the night Amiga Inn.

In the evening i headed over to Itaewon to try the F & C at the The Rose & Crown. The place is tarted up to look like traditional British boozer, the likeness stops there! Positives, the ale selection (bottled) is excellent though not cheap and the F & C’s are good though not earth shattering.  Why can no one prepare fresh chips nowt could be easier? The London Pride Battered Cod tasted fine, though the batter whilst crispy was a bit “thin”. Finally no mushy peas! Negatives, the atmosphere was about as none British as it gets for a traditional pub. Music was loud and dance orientated at 7:00pm? Baseball was shown on the large scree TV’s and I was the only Western customer, not that this bothers me particularly but it was like they hot footed down from Gijaam. It was essentially young Korean couples holding hands over their London Pride which was evaporating slowly! This is the Lotte World of pubs and a major disappointment, ne’er to be visited again. I returned to Jongno for a few beers before retiring early with the intention of visiting Dream Forest on Sunday.

Rising early to watch MCFC play well but labour to beat West Ham, I had a coffee then surveying the skies decided that the large expanse of reclaimed Seoul that is Dream Forest could be a less than dry experience and so defaulted until a later day. Searching the net I googled “what to do in Seoul on a rainy Sunday” and the results were less than inspiring. I am inspired to write a blog post on that my self next week during mid-term down time. I did find a post suggesting a visit to Hwagyesa Temple could be rewarding and so after an Ediya coffee and cream cheese onion bagel I took a 10 minute walk into Hyehwa to pick up the line 4 subway to Suyu Station. Emerging at exit  3  I took the small green bus #02, I got off at Hanshin University and walked up the hill, the temple is well signposted. Strolling up the hill, garlanded with lanterns in preparation for Buddha’s birthday, I passed a lively park were kids practised baseball and a gathering of hill walkers re-fuelling on Makeolli.

Hwagyesa was built-in 1522 by Zen Master Shinwol and has been home to many Zen Masters. Amongst them, world-renowned Zen Master Seung Sahn. Hwagyesa has been used for many years as an international Zen center, receiving people from around the world. They claim that a temple stay will ensure that you “gain clarity of mind in an inspiring environment!” I have to say this was not the most inspiring environment, it actually felt business-like. Templestayers wandered around looking very smug and not in the slightest spiritually uplifted. Maybe this was because my visit coincided with the frenetic activities supporting the upcoming birthday but it was not a place I wanted to dwell.  And so, with the weather improving I crossed a bridge and followed a sign that beckoned me to ascend Mount Samgaksan. Day two had now also become a hike, I needed uplifting, Bukhansan National Park welcomed my creaking limbs with open arms.

Samgaksan (Three-Horned Mountain), is named after the trio of rocky, phallic peaks that are its signature feature. The highest of these, Baegundae, at over 830 meters, is Seoul’s highest view-point. There are many trails to choose from, from relatively bucolic strolls on the mountain’s lower reaches to hardcore hikes on its peaks that have walkers reaching for ropes and railings. In general the park is well signposted and routes are easy to discern, but due to the mountain’s sharp elevations many are fairly strenuous. This I can readily confirm.

I climbed upwards passing a badminton competition on the mountainside and carried on a well-marked trails punctuated by the roped ascents mentioned above.  I had no idea where this would take me just an assumption that at the end of around 4 hours trekking I would take a bus back to central Seoul.  Even now after returning to Chungers I can find no information about the trail I followed.  Theres lots of information about marked trails in the National Park but not the one I apparently took. I met and chatted to number of fellow hikers who almost invariably offered me food and drink, most tried to explain I was ill-equipped to ascend mountains. I had no ninja gear, no mask or walking stick, no overladen back-oak, no crampons, no water bottle or sustenance. The water bottle I agree with, the stick I’m beginning to contemplate BUT whilst hard on the knees and tough exercise this not K2, whatever they may think.

After two-hour hiking I faced a dilemma, ahead was yet another peak speckled with ant like Koreans many singing! It looked insurmountable, it wasn’t but I needed to use my common sense. If I went ahead I would need to carry on to the fortress I could see in the distance, perhaps leave this for another Spring sojourn back to Seoul. Decison made I followed the sign left and down hill to Jeongneung Information Centre. It was a steep and slightly uncomfortable descent with visitor number increasing the lower I got. I passed foragers, more Soju parties, crying kids and arguing couples before reaching the information centre. I was famished and had Kimbap washed down with Vitamin water.  The ranger ushered me south to the bus station where to my uttermost surprise I came across the resting pace of the 1020 bus. The 1020 from past posts passes through Buam-dong and then into central Jongno. I’d never been beyond Buam-dong on the bus but this was a great “know-it” for future hikes.

Returning to central Seoul, I passed through a huge flea market in Sejong-daero before stopping to charge my dead phone at Olleh Square.  Outside there was a major military recruitment drive those already conscripted looking magnificent in their finery. The need for coffee was justifiable, the demolishing of a waffle with ice-cream, blueberry coulis and fresh cream was pure greed and over-indulgence. I walked towards Jongno 3-ga, passing a chestnut seller, a couple engaged in a minor tiff and  the Jongno Tower before stopping at Tapgol Park before  heading back to Gangnam Express Terminal to read On The Road in the roof top garden. Chungers, shower then bed.

Today (May 1) was Labour Day and a surprise day off for me.  Initially, still feeling stiff limbs from my weekend exertions, I’d thought I’d chill, watch movies and carry on with my novel. Instead I set out early for a bike ride heading through Allim-dong and upwards past the new hospital towards Chungju Lake. At the apex of the road is a rest area and a memorial to war veterans. I stopped to read and noticed to my right a walking trail up the mountain. I secured the bike and headed onwards and upwards my lover legs burning with an irritating ache. The preservernce was worthwhile, teh pain subsided and I was afforded remarkable views down Chungju Lake towards Woraksan Nartional park and Danyang. A lovely day, Kings Cross or Mt Gyemyeongsan, no competition, life is sweet!

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Cocktails, Kimchi Poo and Metro Yoga

As the green shoots started to replace the snow but held back by the Eomjeong frost we made our way to Seoul on Friday evening.  The journey met with the usual end of highway frustration as the traffic bullied us into a 35 minute delay.  After that we souped up our travel cards and 30 minutes later were nestled in Banana Backpackers ready to shower and taste some of Seoul’s finest cocktails.

Angels Disley and Heighway were ravenous so we headed through the hanboked alleyways of Ikseon-dong past Jongno 3-ga to Oowoo Bar but thought the gastronomic fare a tad expensive. We left and satisfied our hunger with some quality Bos primigenius across the street in a busy barbecue restaurant! We then headed over to Friends which once again had a convivial laid back atmosphere. From Friends we circled to Lovestar, once again the cocktails, accompanied by excellent music videos, were well received. Finally we strolled over to Wallpaper here we were driven to distraction by some solemn Karaoke. The Angels then expertly faked their marriage for a pair of extremely camp new friends. It was actually well past our bedtime and so in  the early hours we headed back to the hotel.

Rising early we had English Muffins and coffee before embarking on a one step metro journey but just before exiting AD had to pay a visit.  She re-emerged traumatised! on following a Korean lady into the cubicle she experience an uncontrollable urge to vomit induced by the mass of red Kimchi poo (disgusting).  On Michelle’s recovery we emerged from the station  before taking the 1020 bus from Gyeonbukgung to Buam-dong.

We took a short stroll up through Changuimun Gate and down the hill before returning to climb the stairs to the Poet Yun Dong-ju’s Hill. From here the walk downhill begins skirting the line of the fortress wall. Here in the shadow of Mt. Inwangsan, on a clear day, you have fantastic views of Seoul towards Namsan. Today it was slightly overcast but it was still easy to pick out the royal palaces and the presidents “Blue House“. Also, the gates were open for an ascent of the mountain but I was encouraged to leave that until the 14th April, the weekend of one Yeouido Spring Blossom and Arts Festival.

As we descended the mountain we appreciated the views and the evidence of security protecting us from the “impending” North korean invasion. The brave souls who had taken the ascent of Mt, Inwangsan were mere dots on the horizon. We stopped for photos with the grey silhouette of Mt Namsan and Seoul Tower in the background. The Angels posed next to a grand gold tiger protected by yet another boy soldier. After the final stroll to the end of the existing renovations we turned left through a forest walkway emerging at Sajik Park.  A further 5 minute stroll along streets lined with police returned us to exit 3 of the station. We had arranged to meet FOBY at 1:00pm my misjudgment meant we were an hour early.

We walked round to the Daelim Art Gallery but it was suffering from re-modelling as were all the other galleries in Tongin-dong (or Hyoja-dong). We did discovered a place for lunch which served a variety of Samgyetang. We crossed the main road and a the longest lunchy queue I had ever seen, this apparently was for another legendary Samgyetang restaurant. Strolling through Tongin-dong we came to Tongin Market which is on the Seoul list of Asia’s 10 greatest street food cities for the tteokbokki.

This small but lively market is on my return list, perhaps on the Sunday after my Inwangsan climb. We headed back to the subway as Frank was due, the Angels picked up a couple of Lotto tickets as I noticed a  radiantly happy group of young Koreans meeting up for the afternoon, below me a wizened ld guy begged for cash on the subway stairs. On Frank’s arrival we headed for lunch and all chose the Samgyetang expressly designed to support female re-productive health, mmmmm! It was tremendous.

After lunch we headed south towards Sunyeudo eco-park. Unfortunately as we emerged the weather had taken a turn for the worse, it was  bitterly cold as we headed over the bridge spanning the Han River. I’d visited the park during Chuseok when the weather was much milder, it’s a place where courting couples and families congregate and another place I’ll revisit in milder times. The cold was too much and we passed through the park quickly passing some young folk filming.

It was similar to an event I’d witnessed before with the actors sporting multi-coloured hair and looking extremely androgynous. At the far end of the park we crossed over the arched bridge and an extremely kind Korean guy led us to the bosom of Seonyudo subway station, we headed back to Jogno for a nap.

The evening saw us consume the real deal oxtail soup (Gori Gomtang) at Jaembaeok. After drinks at Shortbus we headed back to Lovestar for another great evening before heading back to the hotel.

In the morning FOBY had to leave to attend a funeral with his old school chums but before leaving cashed in Carissa’s Lotto ticket as she’d won 50,000 won! Frank left and we took the subway to Dondaemun, after witnessing an old guy practising some sort of yoga on the subway train we left our bags in the lockers and set out towards the Seoul Flea Market.   We came to Dongmyo Shrine and took a right, this area is choca with second-hand stalls selling everything from fishing tackle to clothing.

There were a cornucopia of characters some dour, some smiling, other pretty eccentric! Eventually we reached the indoor market and after wandering around the ground floor and being presented by wrapped boiled eggs for Easter we headed upstairs to sundry items. Near to the front of the building and out of view we discovered the naughty area, three stalls selling all kinds of sex toys and in different sizes. Two elderly male stall-holders chuckled as we stopped to peruse, Angel D joking with the vendor that none were her size :-).

On leaving we took some liquid refreshments before returning to the market as Angel D wanted to buy some pumps. No purchases made we headed left towards the Chungeoncheon Stream which we followed back to Dondaemun; passing the soon to be visited burrito take-away we crossed  over to Doota! department store.  The store covers around 8 floors and has a restaurant, coffee shop and roof garden on the 8th.  There is a great view over the “in progress” Dondaemun History and Culture Park and the restaurant, though not sampled, has some nice bouteille du vin at its entrance. I picked up some 4711 cologne and Michelle some other beautifying product. After some browsing we scurried over the busy thoroughfare for burritos’; collecting our backpacks it was time to head to Gangnam for our journey back to Chungers!

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Winter Vacation: Seoul Day 3, The Art Galleries of Buam-dong and the Seoul Fortress Wall to Sunnyemun

A cold, crispy and sunny day 3 saw a sojourn to Buam-dong before a walk along another section of the Seoul wall from Buam-dong ( Changuimun gate) to Sungnyemun. I’ve written about Buam-dong before, just remember its best to take the bus up the hill and descend rather than ascend like a numpty!

I went down the hill in Buam-dong towards the university but really it is not worth the effort, stay at the top, venture no farther than the new Seoul Museum.

The museum’s owned by the philanthropist Mr. Ahn who just before the last election dropped out of the presidential race. Above the museum is Seokpajeong a villa that belonged to Prince Regent Heungseon who ruled Korea in the late 18th Century.  It’s a beautiful setting and well worth a visit.

After visiting the museum cross over the main road and explore the quaint streets, cafe’s and galleries of Buam-dong (not on Monday’s they are closed). To take the walk return up the hill to Changuimun Gate and the Poet Yun Dong-ju’s Hill, which is where the walk downhill starts. Here in the shadow of Mt. Inwangsan, on a clear day, you have fantastic views of Seoul towards Namsan. Its easy to pick out the royal palaces and the presidents “Blue House“.

As I descended the mountain I appreciated the views but was constantly surveyed by the masses of security protecting us from an “impending” North korean invasion. I saw more Koreans hiding there faces from the CCTV than in any other place in SK.  The highlights (other than the views) of my descent can be summarised as follows:

• At least 10 fellow hikers fell into uncontrolled laughter when I said hello to them, I’d like to think I make people laugh but such mirth at pleasentries was inconceivable.
• I saw 7 young ladies making the trek in high heels, I believe Korean women are the worlds best totterers on a mountain side, they should be applauded!
• I met 5 couples picnicking with copious quantities of makeoli, did they make it to the top or just stagger to the bottom?
• Is it normal throughout the world to see 9 hikers applying make-up products and carry elaborate mirrors within their hiking paraphernalia?
• I saw one lady sledging without a sledge encourage by her son to enhance her bum burns.
• 2 people were observed squatting behind bushes less that 2 metres from the main pathway…really!

An enlightening descent was followed by a visit to the closed Seondaemun Prison History Museum (bloody Monday). I returned to Tongui-dong for beef rib stew (galbi Jim) at a restaurant called 007.  I had been shaken by my observations but not stirred from my ambition to circumnavigate the great Seoul Joseon Wall. I viewed a few galleries and then settle for a coffee in a gallery off Jahmun-ro 6. After an afternoon nap I ventured out into Jongno for my Khanbu and a beer. Day 4 beckoned, the 1988 Seoul Olympic Park.

Seoul Museum, Buam-dong, Hours: 11am to 7pm (5pm for the Seokpajeong, Contact: T. (02) 395-0100, www.seoulmuseum.org

Buam-dong can be accessed from Gyeongbokgung Station. Buses #1020 and 7022 serve Buam-dong from exit 2 and 150m down Jahamun-ro.  Get off at the Changuimun gate or down the hill at the museum.